The heat is crazy hot at 8:00am, we decide to pack our jackets, chaps and gloves and opt for just a tank top and helmet. I’m so excited today as we pack up the bikes. Route 66 should take us far away from the interstate and out into the desert.
As we head out of town we stop for a photo op at the covered ‘welcome’ wagon that says “Needles California”. I sure wish I had the laptop during this time so that I could write down all the things running thru my brain and people I met. But for now I will just have to try and hit the highlights.
I write these blogs for purely selfish reasons, I want to remember what I felt, saw and the smells of the journey. I want to remember the interesting people I met along my way, ones that touched my life and heart with a simple smile or conversation.
As we leave Needles, we have to join I-40 for a bit. As we cross the Colorado River you can see the old Route 66 Bridge to your right. You can no longer travel on it; there is a gas pipeline that occupies it. Still I wonder how many families stopped to cool off, maybe have a picnic and take a swim. There is nothing but hot dry desert for hours and hours in all directions.
As we take the Oatman Rd exit, we find ourselves back on Route 66 and its sleepy hills and lazy curves. On the crest of each hill is a sign that warns drivers not to proceed if there is water on the road. This area of the desert is known for its flash floods, as we proceed you can seen the remains of the last flash flood on the road. Red clay covers the road, the shoulders of the road look like dried up river beds. The sky is blue, the breeze is warm, there is not a cloud in the sky – so we ride.
The book warns that although the road ‘looks’ like you can do 65 mph, take heed and follow the 45 mph speed limit signs. It was right, the curves are not banked correctly and you find yourself fighting to keep your bike on the right path. We find there is nothing but desert between Needles and Oatman. I can tell that we are getting close to Oatman some hour and half later when I see the signs to watch out for wild burros.
We turn a corner and sure enough, there is a small herd of 6 or so burros being fed by the tourist that have stopped. As we pull into Oatman, it is like stepping back in time. This single-lane town has not changed since the late 1800′s. if you are traveling out this way, you can’t miss the town of Oatman, it is worth the extra drive to come out here. You can read more about the town at http://www.oatmangold.com or http://www.desertusa.com/oatman/du_oatman.html.
We parked at a hitching post and wandered thru the town. This town is booming today, there were so many motorcycles and cars; it was hard to find a parking spot. We met a couple from Canada. They just got married last week, flew to NY and rented a Harley. They are traveling Route 66 to California so that his new bride can meet all his friends in LA. This town is wonderful, they stage gunfights, there is live music and you can walk thru the Oatman Hotel where Clark Gable and Carol Lombard honeymooned in 1939. It is the back drop to several movies, How the West was Won, Foxfire, and Edge of Eternity. There are many beautiful artists that call Oatman home, good thing I was on a bike, or I probably would have spent a lot more money than I planned. I did buy the cutest little monkey shirt – gotta love the monkey.
We ate lunch at the Oatman Hotel, it is covered and I mean covered in 1 dollar bills. The waitress will bring you a black sharpie and a stapler so that you can add your own. The food was good, I had something called “Burro Ears” which is really just homemade potato chips served with a salsa sour crème mix, and they were great. We take time to lube up (SPF 50!) and gear up and head out of town. Even though we used SPF 50, sometimes up to 6 times a day we still got very very dark.
The road to Kingman is filled with switchback corners and drop offs that make my tummy flip flop (no I don’t think it was the Burro Ears). Sitegreaves Pass elevation is only 3500 ft, but there is a spot you can stop at and see 3 different states: California, Nevada, and Arizona! The scenery is breath taking with all the crags and vast desert and Saguaro cactus. There are a few remains to gawk at as we zoom by at a whopping 40 MPH.
Regardless, of whether you travel I-40 and jump off to Route 66 for the sites, or if you stay on Route 66 for the whole trip; you will take the Business Loop of every town you come across. Downtown Kingman has done a wonderful job of preserving the Route 66 feel as you travel through it. There are many hotels that have restored the original signs and some remains of repair shops that allow your mind to travel back in time. Kingman is a good place to stop, refuel, and rehydrate; get your bearings and press onward.
It was somewhere along this long stretch of highway that I came up with the idea for a children’s book. The sky is so blue here and the clouds are so puffy, I found myself picking out a cloud and making up a story about it. I thought if I could start with a picture of a cloud on one page and then on the opposite page draw the image that it evoked in my twisted brain. I could write the story. At the end of book, I would put the same picture of the original cloud and kids could make their own picture from it. It is so weird some of the things that run thru your brain when all you have is wind to listen to.
On our way to Seligman, we stopped at the Grand Canyon Caverns. You can read all about the wonderful story here http://www.desertusa.com/mag99/feb/stories/gccaverns.html
I must say I was amazed at how much I enjoyed the tour. I just wanted to stop because of the giant dinosaur out front; I wanted my picture with him. Clint wanted to take the tour, and I’m glad he did. Our tour guide was animated and captivating.
It was hard to climb back on our bikes when the temperature in the cave is a constant 56 degrees and the temperature on our bikes was not! It was a whopping 104 degrees outside!! However, Seligman and the Roadkill Café called to us, and we had to answer.
Seligman is the birthplace the Historic Route 66 Assoc. of Arizona; they sponsor and annual Fun Run where in the spring classic cars, motorcycles and people fill the streets to take a run on Route 66. The Roadkill Café has wonderful food, their motto “you kill it, we grill it”. Thankfully, they declined the bugs that were on my windshield and fed me anyway. There are so many things to see in this town, they truly believe in keeping Route 66 alive.
The sun is slowing setting as we cruise on down the road, the gust of wind becoming a little cooler. We climb a few large hills and the sun drops below the horizon and I find myself shivering on my bike. The shivers signal that it is time to find a bed to sleep in.
We pull into Williams and call it a day. But the fun doesn’t stop there. The hotel has a fire pit out back by the swimming pool, Clint grabs a drink and we head out to enjoy the cool night air.
We meet a couple of travelers out there. One couple from California they are looking for somewhere to retire. Another couple, mom and son, that are headed east to take a truck to her oldest son that is in the military.
The California guy asks “are you guys part of those bikes out front?”
“Ummmm” Clint and I look at each other, “we are the bikes out front!”
The conversation only got better from there.